Katha
Katha is a town in Sagaing Region, Northern Myanmar. Its claim to fame in the English-speaking world is its connection to author George Orwell, who was stationed here as a colonial policeman from 1926–7. He used Katha as the setting of his first novel, Burmese Days. Some of the places featured in the book still exist today.
Understand
In her book Finding George Orwell in Burma, Emma Larkin writes of Katha;
| “ | Katha is today, as it must have been in Orwell’s time, a fairy-tale setting. The town sits on a bank of the wide Irrawaddy river, and is surrounded on all sides by the jagged outline of distant mountain ranges. The air is laced with the crisp, fresh smell of fir trees. Decaying colonial mansions and teak houses the colour of cooking-chocolate are hidden amid a forest of mahogany trees and rose bushes … Walking through the streets of Katha is therefore an eerie experience – a bit like walking on to an abandoned stage set. | ” |
Katha is the last city of the Kachin State and it was included in Sagaing Division after Ne Win's 1962 coup. Once part of the famous boat ride from Myitkina to Mandalay, the few tourists that make it this far are usually driven by the desire to see the town and buildings that feature in Burmese Days. Today it exists as a charming river town, friendlier than its cousin upriver, Bhamo. If you wanted to spend some time doing nothing; there are worse places to be.
Get in
Katha is well connected by road, rail and river.
By train
Go to Na Bar station, on the Mandalay-Myitkina line. Tuktuks are available for 1,500 kyat (2019) from the station to Katha. This is the cheapest option.
By boat
Local "fast boats" are available from Bhamo for 16,000 kyat (though locals pay half this). Journey times depend heavily on the season.
The overnight ferry from Mandalay to Katha takes 36 hours, the price for foreigners is US$45 (Kyat not accepted) as of 2018. There is also a 12-hour fast boat from Mandalay (price unknown).
By bus
Buses go daily to/from Mandalay.
Get around
The town is quite small, you might take a tuktuk to the boat station to Bhamo which moves south past the pagoda in dry season.
If you would like to see across the river where a few sandy and untouched villages lie you can take the ferry.
See
The 🌍 Monastery isn't so grand, but has an open grass area and some nice trees.
For those who wish to come to Katha to do some Burmese Days sightseeing, the following buildings are still standing:
- The old British Club, which is now an association office. While previously open for visitors, with even its tennis court still in working order, as of 2020 it is all reportedly closed.
- Orwell's house is on the main street, and features a small museum inside. As of 2018, a police officer lives upstairs.
- Dr Veraswami's clinic is still a clinic
- The town jail is also still in use.
- The impressive house of the Deputy Commissioner is cared for, though derelict, and has information and photographs displayed inside about the real-life Deputy Commissioner and the role of the house in Burmese Days.
Katha British Club (the second storey is a post-colonial addition)
A game of tennis at the old British Club
George Orwell's house
Do
Buy
There is a large and interesting bazzar on both sides of the main road, with a wide range of clothing and goods. Buy a bamboo hat.
Eat
- Sein Restaurant, a Chinese restaurant next to Ayarwaddy Guest House, has friendly staff and an English menu with everything 1,500-4,000 kyat. Wide range of options, soup included with all meals. 08:30 - 22:00.
- Noodles at the bazzar are only 500 kyat
Drink
There is a great local bar on stilts that hangs lazily over the river near the slow boat ticket office. The door is through the kitchen.
Sleep
- Ayarwaddy Guest House (on the river immediately opposite the fast boat terminal). Friendly English speaking owner offers simple but clean fan rooms. Cold showers and clean squat toilets. Request a riverside room for more air and light. 8,000 kyat.
- Hotel King.
- Hotel Sein.
Go next
- Bhamo – fast ferry for 16,000 kyat (Apr 2019)
- Myitkina – continue north to the end of the railway line
- Mandalay – take the train down to Mandalay